crochet pattern - wine country shawl by kim miller.

Skill Level: Intermediate

Inspired by the majestic orchards, and wineries of BC, Wine Country is a light weight, carefree, crescent shawl that works well as a shoulder wrap, or scarf. This crochet shawl is worked from the top down, and not only does it drape beautifully around the neckline, but the long ends naturally twirl as they cascade down towards the waistline.

This crochet pattern calls for 1¾ skeins of Midknit Cravings Lush Fingering (100% superwash merino) 100 g (3.5 ounces)/400 meters (437 yards) per skein, a 3.25 mm (D) crochet hook, and a yarn needle. This detailed crochet pattern includes written instructions, and illustrations to help you along the way.

The blocked the shawl measures approximately 172.7 cm (68”) at it’s widest point, and 39.4 cm (15.5”) at it’s longest point. Please note that measurements are approximate and will be affected by the gauge and the brand of yarn.

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kim.

tutorial - chunky crochet sofa pillow cover by tara schreyer

Chunky knits are everywhere and we can see why. It is gorgeous and brings a cozy feel to any room. I wanted to try my hand at it and this was my creation. Want to make your own?

Materials
- 4 Balls of Loops & Threads™ Ginormous (100 yds/92m;15.8 oz/450 g)
- 25 mm (Size 50) crochet hook
- 120" (10') of 1.25" ribbon
- body pillow (measuring approx. 45" x 16")


Finished Size
Approximately 45" (114.3 cm) x 16" (43.2 cm). It has lots of stretch in these stitches.

Gauge
8 slip stitches x 8 rows = 6" square

Instructions for the Chunky Crochet Sofa Pillow Cover

Pillow Front/Back (make 2)

Chain 21.

Row 1: Working in back humps of chains, slip stitch in 2nd chain from hook and in each chain to end, turn - 20 sts. (Mark the first and last stitches of row with a stitch marker as it is easy to miss these stitches. Continue to move markers with each row.)
Row 2: (Mark as right side) Chain 1, working in the front loops only, 1 slip stitch in each stitch to end, turn - 20 sts
Row 3: Chain 1, working in the back loops only, 1 slip stitch in each stitch to end, turn - 20 sts
Rows 4 - 67: Repeat Rows 2 & 3 thirty-two more times
Row 68: Slip stitch in back loops only in each slip stitch to end - 20 sts
Fasten off, leaving a very long strand for stitching up the length of the pillow.

Finishing
Lining up the first and last rows, place wrong sides together and slip stitch the two panels together along the long edges. Leave the short edges open. 

Stuff the pillow into the pillow cover.

Cut four 1.25" ribbon into 30" (2.5') lengths. On the side of the pillow, weave two of the ribbons through a few loops on the inside of the pillow at the 7th stitch from each side.

 
 Tie into a bow or knot and trim the ends to the desired length. Repeat on other side.

Don't forget to share your finished projects on Ravelry. Can't wait to see everyone's projects!!

tara.

how to correctly place your post stitches.

I love the looks of front and back post stitches to create beautiful cables and designs on an otherwise flat fabric. But I must admit, I sometimes have difficulty figuring out where my next stitch should be placed, whether I am transitioning to a post stitch or back to a "regular" stitch. This often leads to me having to rip out the row and start over, really concentrating on my stitch placement. 

There are a few tricks that I use for myself that I thought might be useful for everyone else as well. Below is the beginning stages of a pattern that I have in the works.

Instructions for Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as a hdc), hdc in next hdc and each of the next 4 hdc, four-post cable over the next four stitches, hdc in next hdc and each of the next 7 hdc, four-post cable over the next four stitches, hdc in next hdc and each of the next 4 hdc, hdc in the turning ch, turn

I am about to do my four post cable where I must skip the next two posts and make a front post double crochet (fpdc) around each of the third and fourth post. 

   
It's not always so easy to tell if you are only looking at your current row, as it is hard to see which post your current stitch is actually sitting above. I have goofed up on this many, many times. So now I look at my previous row and count the posts. I just made 6 half double crochet (hdc) so I want to count in 6 posts and then my next two posts will be the ones I skip.

The two posts highlighted in a darker purple are the two posts that I am going to skip and I will place a fpdc around each of the next two posts as you can see in the next picture.

Now I must finish the four post cable by placing a fpdc around the two previously missed posts. After finishing my cable stitches, I return to making half double crochets, but this can also get confusing.

This is when I flip over my work and look at the back side. The post stitches push the tops of the stitches towards the back of the work and they are easy to locate. 

 

The stitches highlighted in soft blue are the tops of the stitches that have been pushed towards the back of the work. The cable was made up of four post stitches so count the four stitches and the next stitch (highlighted in purple) is where you will place your next hdc. 

 
Here it is on the front side again after doing a few half double crochet after the four post cable stitches.

Now you are off and running. Use these little tricks throughout your pattern and you will have no problem with your cables running amok. I know it has worked wonders for me and I hope that you find it useful as well. 

tara. 

how to crochet the loop stitch.

The "loop stitch", thus named because of the long loops that it creates, is a fun way to add texture and visual interest to your crochet project.

To crochet the loop stitch, insert the hook in next st as shown below. 

Wrap the yarn, front to back, over first and second finger as shown below. The yarn on your fingers become the loop. Yarn over and draw though a loop. 

Carefully remove fingers from the loop. Yarn over and draw through both loops on the hook.

Check out how we incorporated the loop stitch in one of our amigurumi crochet designs...

Puppy Love by Kim Miller

If you are interested in purchasing the "Puppy Love" crochet pattern shown you can find it here on Ravelry.com.

kim.

that nasty word "gauge".

I can't think of 5 letters that can evoke more stress in the mind of most crocheters then the word "gauge". We've all seen it written in patterns, and we all know that it is something we should check, but it is so much easier to ignore it. Really, all we want to do is relax and crochet. Then when our project turns out to be any size, other than what we intended, we do what every good crocheter does...we cast all blame on the pattern and the designer. I know that I'm guilty of this and I'm sure that I'm not the only one, so I thought that I would take a few minutes to talk about gauge (also known as tension). Hopefully, this will take away some of the mystery and fear.

First off, what is gauge? Simply put gauge, or tension, is your guide as to how tight or how loose the designer crochets. Each of us is unique. Not everyone holds their yarn the same, or crochets the same. Some us crochet loosely while others of us crochet tightly, and for some of us our gauge is dependent on our mood. When we are happy and relaxed our gauge is loose, and when we are upset or tense our stitches are tighter then normal. The gauge is added to the pattern so that you are able to match your gauge, or tension to the designers. If your gauge is different then the designers then not only will this affect the finished size, but it will also affect the drape and feel of the fabric.

Now, comes the question...how do you check gauge? Before you start your crochet project you will want to work up a small test swatch. You want to know how many stitches and rows you are getting in a given measurement. Often, the designer will suggest a 4" (10 cm) square, but it is best to work up a few more stitches and rows then the gauge instructions recommend. This will ensure that you get a accurate measurement. Also, be sure to use the yarn weight and hook size recommended, and to follow all instructions regarding blocking and pressing. After you have crocheted your test swatch as directed, lay it out on a flat surface and using a metal or rigid ruler measure the length horizontally across the square. Mark the length with a pin at either end as shown.

Next, take the same measurement vertically across the square and again mark with a pin at either end.

If you are measuring the gauge over a pattern of stitches then the same principle applies.

Now, count the number of stitches and rows between the pins. If you have the same number of stitches and rows, as the pattern suggests, then you can proceed with your project. If you have more stitches, this means that you crochet tighter then the designer, and if you have less stitches you crochet looser.

The next question is, how do you match your gauge to the designers? We have found that the simplest way is to change your hook size. When a designers adds the hook size to a pattern this is meant to be used as a guide. There is no hard and fast rule that this is the hook size that you should use. The most important thing is to make sure that you are getting the same gauge or tension as the designer. If the designer crochets tighter then you do then this would mean that you would need to choose a smaller hook, and don't be alarmed if your hook size is drastically different then the hook size called for in the pattern. I'm a fairly loose crocheter so for amigurumi I've been known to use a hook as small as a 3.00 mm to a 3.50 mm (E) using a worsted weight yarn, whereas someone else may achieve the same gauge as me using a 5.00 mm (H) crochet hook.

Another way to match the gauge is to try holding the yarn in a different manner. If your stitches are too loose you can try wrapping the yarn around your ring finger as well as your little finger. If your stitches are too tight you can try not wrapping the yarn around your fingers at all. You will need to make up a new test swatch for each trial, but it is well worth the effort as it will help you to successfully finish your project and ensure that you have something that you are proud of and able to enjoy for years!

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If you are interested in further information on gauge and garment design, Kim Guzman is a designer that I admire and an expert in the field. If you are ready to tackle a garment then I would recommend checking out this post by Kim: Problems with Gauge

kim.

new crochet pattern - sew simple baby socks by kim miller.

 

 

 

Skill Level: Easy

If you are looking for a last minute baby gift then you will love this crochet pattern! These sweet, little, crochet socks are worked flat and then sewn together along both sides, making them "Sew Simple". Also, since each sock is only a 10 to 14 row repeat (depending on the size made), you can easily make up a pair in an evening or two.

Other than scraps of a contrasting colour, you can crochet a pair of these socks using less than half of a ball of Knit Picks® Comfy Fingering [50 g (1.76 oz)/199 meters (218 yds) per ball]. The pattern calls for a 3.25 mm (D) crochet hook, and uses the following stitches: slip stitch crochet, single crochet, half double crochet, and double crochet.

Also, the pattern includes figure pictures and instructions for 3 different sizes:

• Size 0(0-3 months): 7.6 cm (3”) long
• Size 1(3-6 months): 8.9 cm (3½”) long
• Size 2(6-9 months): 10.2 cm (4”) long

Please note that age ranges are approximate and are intended as a general reference only. Since every child is different, we recommend measuring the child’s foot to ensure proper fit.

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(Purchase this pattern and receive 20% off by entering the coupon code "sewsimple20" at the checkout!

Offer valid until Friday - May 8th, 2014)

 

 

 

kim.

how to make a tassel.

Not only are tassels the perfect embellishment for your crochet projects (or what have you), but they are also a great way to use up left over yarn.

 

First off, grab any piece of scrap cardboard and cut to desired size. Your finished tassel will be slightly shorter than your piece of cardboard. Next, lay a piece of yarn across the top of the cardboard. Starting and finishing at the bottom end of the cardboard, wind yarn around both the cardboard and the piece of yarn lying across the top. I did about 20 wraps.

 

 Pull the top piece of yarn tightly and tie the top of the tassel securely.
 

 

Cut the yarn ends at the opposite end of the cardboard, and remove the tassel from the cardboard.

 

 Cut another piece of yarn and wrap it a few times tightly around the tassel, approximately ½” from the top and tie securely.

To disguise the knot, pass both yarn ends through the center of the tassel as shown.

Trim any excess yarn across the bottom of the tassel.

Voila...a simple, beautiful tassel that will add detail to any project!!!

Another option, that adds both shape and weight to your tassel is to use a bead. To do this start by threading a bead onto a long piece of yarn and tie a knot close to the bead. For the moment, set the bead aside. 

Next, omitting the piece of yarn lying across the top, wind yarn around the piece of cardboard.

Cut the yarn ends at and remove the tassel from the cardboard.

Lay the yarn out flat as shown.

Using the beaded piece of yarn, tie a knot around the center of the tassel. Take care to fan the yarn out evenly around the bead and tie securely.

Again, to disguise the knot, pass both yarn ends through the center of the tassel and trim any excess yarn across the bottom of the tassel. For extra detail, add a bead to the top of your tassel and secure with a knot close to the bead.

kim.